Thursday 14 July 2011

Day Trips From Madrid

Lake at Aranjuez
Staying in any city for more than a few days can be feet achingly tiring, the chance of seeing a bit of greenery and open space out of the city is an attractive option. It also allows you to discover more of the region your staying in and adds an additional authentic experience to your stay, wherever you are. Madrid is located in the very centre of Spain on the Castilian plateau, it is in the region of the Comunidad de Madrid which is one of the seventeen autonomous regions of Spain. Madrid is is connected by several train stations, Atocha in the south of the city and Chamartín in the north. From these stations it is possible to take the the local train service (Cercanias) to a number of destinations, see the Renfe (Spanish train service) website for timetables http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/index.html. Here's a selection of the best day trips from Madrid.

Toledo's Alcantara bridge

Toledo
View of Toledo
Toledo is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the old Toledo is made of of labyrinthine medieval streets and is encircled by the river Tagus on three sides. In the summer months, Toledo can be busy with tourists especially at the weekends, however it makes for a great day trip as it only 35mins on the train from Madrid. The must sees while your there are the Cathedral and the Alcázar of Toledo, a castle which is now a museum.


Aranjuez 
Not far from Toledo is Aranjuez, which used to be the place where the Spanish royalty spent there summers. It is renown for it beautiful gardens which are a popular setting for wedding photos. Like Toledo it can be busy with tourists who come to admire the Royal palace and gardens. It is truly a magical and beautiful place to visit and to just wander. Travel time from Madrid is approximately 45 minutes.

Gardens at Aranjuez

El Escorial 
Library at El Escorial 
North-west of Madrid is the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. It is the location of  a rather austere monastery built by Felipe II and finished in 1584 after twenty years of construction. The huge granite building is an awe-inspiring site from the outside and its interior is decorated with frescoes and paintings by Velázquez, Titian and El Greco among others. El Escorial is a real step back in time, Felipe II's bedroom has been preserved in the same condition as when he died in 1598. El Escorial can be reached by bus from Moncloa bus station (bus 661) or from Atocha or Chamartín train stations, the journey takes about an hour.

El Escorial

Alcala de Henares
Palacio de Laredo
Famous as the birthplace of Cervantes, Alcala de Henares is a medieval university town 35 km North-east of  from Madrid. The old town has been largely preserved and it is made up of winding cobbled streets. The centre has also been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is famous for its population of white storks that nest on top of many of the historial buildings, they have themselves become quite a tourist attraction. A must see is the Palacio de Laredo which is an eye-catching building due to its mix of architectural styles (Gothic, Mudejar and Arabesque). Alcala is well connected to Madrid and has become a commuter town as its on 25minutes journey by train.

Alcala de Henares Plaza Cervantes
Segovia
Segovia is situated to the north-west of Madrid in the region of Castile y Leon. Segovia is an enchanting city famous for the Roman aqueduct that was built c. AD 50. Segovia has be declared a world heritage site by UNESCO and has a abundance of historical buildings of civic and religious relevance. Some must sees include the 16th century Gothic Cathedral in the Plaza Mayor and the Alcázar de Segovia, which is a 14th century fortress of Roman origin. To see something more modern, the Contemporary Art Museum houses the work by the Abstract Expresssionist Esteban Vincente in a Renaissance style palace. Train journey from Madrid is about 30 minutes. 


Alcázar Segovia
Aqueduct Segovia

Wednesday 6 July 2011

'La Cuenta Por Favor', some useful advice and phrases for ordering in Spanish.

Typical restaurant front

Tapas
It's a slightly different affair ordering food in Spain, the menu system is different as is the way in which customers speak to the waiters. However, the seemingly curt manner in which Spanish people ask for things in a restaurant isn't seen as rude, its direct and to the point and for learners of Spanish a great deal easier to pick up. Here's an example, in English someone would say: 'Could I possibly have a glass of water please?', to translate into Spanish would be -'¿Me podrias traer un vasito de agua por favor?, where in truth, it would be 'Traerme agua, por favor', literally, 'Bring me water please'.  It's a perfectly acceptable way to speak, as long as you don't forget you 'por favor' or 'gracias' it isn't rude at all. Simply asking for a beer can be put as bluntly as 'Una cerveza por favor'.
 From an English point of view, it can take a bit of getting used to as it sounds very direct which is contrary to the English way of asking for things (in most cases). Unless you're in high society in Spain, it 's doubtful you'll need to use 'could' and 'would' in relation to asking for things in a restaurant. Here's some useful words and phrases to use when ordering. The words in brackets show how the Spainsh word's pronounced.

Oiga - Is like saying 'hey' to get the waiter's attention, it's pronounced oye-ga.

Camarero/a - waiter/ress

¿Me traes la carta por favor? - Could you bring me the menu please?

¿Que te recomiendas? - What would you recommend? ( rec-com-me-end-das)

¿Cual es el plato típico de aquí? - Which dish is a local speciality?

¿De que consiste? - What's in it?

Quiero..... - I would like.... (key-ro)

Para mí.... - For me.... (mí is pronounced the same as me)

Trae pan por favor - Could you bring some bread please?

Otra botella por favor - Could you bring another bottle please? (bot- teya)

¿Donde estan los servicios? or  ¿El baño por favor? - Where is the toilet/bathroom please?

La cuenta por favor - Can we have the bill please?

Tapas bar


Board advertising the menú
When asking for the menu it's important to distinguish between the a la carte menu (la carta) and the the daily menu (el menú or menú del día). May bars and restaurants serve a daily menu which consists of three courses and mostly includes a drink and coffee. This menu can cost anything between 6 and 15 euros per person with the more expensive tasting menus (menú de des-gustación) around 30 euros. The menú del día is a good economical option that often consists of a selection of local specialities.





If you're looking  for vegetarian food and you're not in Barcelona, you going to find it hard. There isn't such a thing as veggie burgers and what goes for a sandwhich 'vegetal' contains tuna. In Spain, what would be regarded as a vegetarian option would be a fish dish. I'd suggest asking for things like 'Verduras a la Plancha' which is grilled vegetables like peppers, asparagus and aubergine, or Tortilla Española which is of course a Spanish omelette. Also, be specific about salads, they often contain tuna, 'sin' means 'without', so 'sin atún' is 'without tuna'. To be clear that you don't eat meat or fish, 'Soy vegetariano/a' - I am a vegetarian. 'No como carne ni pescado'- I don't eat meat or fish. And there's always patatas fritas (chips) if nothing else.

Tapas and wine



When ordering, you can choose between ordering tapas or raciones which are larger portions of tapas or platos, which are dishes served with  potatoes and vegetables, which is called 'guarnición'. These are normally preceded by 'entrantes' (starters) and followed by 'postre' (dessert).

Hake with clams

If you see 'servicio incluido' on the menu this means that service is included in the price, although it usually isn't and tipping for service is the normal thing to do. In Spanish VAT is IVA and it should show on your bill the percentage of IVA added. The menu should also state whether IVA is 'incluido' in the individual prices of the dishes.
If the waiter likes you, you may be invited to have a 'chupito', a shot of liqueur normally Orujo which is like the Italian Grappa. Remember, 'Te invito' means you are being invited to a free chupito, so make sure it doesn't appear on the bill. Also, 'de la casa' means 'on the house', in case you're lucky enough to hear that.

Restaurant in Mallorca




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Saturday 25 June 2011

Something more refreshing.....Sangría Blanca




We are used to, and perhaps a bit bored of drinking Sangria made with red wine. However, Sangría Blanca (white sangria) is a much more refreshing adaptation of the original, and is the suitable option for those hot afternoons that lead on to long summer evenings. It can be topped up with more or less alcohol as you like or as the evening progresses. This recipe uses among other things Vodka, if you wish to make a softer version the Vodka can be left out altogether. But do try at least a splash of sherry as it really brings out all the flavours.


To make a jug of Sangria you will need:

1 bottle of dry white wine
50ml of Vodka or dry sherry such as a Fino (or both, just add a bit more soda)
2 limes halved
2 lemons halved plus a few extra wegdes
1 small bunch of white grapes de-seeded and halved
a selection of chopped fruit such as peaches, strawberries or oranges
a few sprigs of mint
club soda or lemonade
ice

To prepare the Sangría, pour the wine and Vodka/sherry into a jug. Juice the limes and lemons and add the juice to the jug. Add the all the fruit, lemon wedges, ice and mint, then stir. Top up with the soda or lemonade.




Adaptations: as with the original, there are many possible ways to adapt this recipe; different spirits could be used such as gin or tequila. Also, if you haven't got fresh mint, then a splash of mint liqueur is a good replacement. The fruit used can also be adapted to what's available to  you.

Tip: this recipe is a great way to use up any white wine of a lesser quality, although a medium priced white wine is the preferred option.

Monday 20 June 2011

It's getting too hot, time to go up North: La Rioja

Church in a small village of La Rioja
The wine region of la Rioja has become more widely known around the world in recent years, firstly for the quality red wine that it produces and secondly as a travel destination. The types of visitor the region of La Rioja pulls is mainly Spanish, being fairly near Madrid, it makes it an ideal getaway. However, it is beginning to emulate the atmosphere of St Emilion as a centre for wine appreciation. Its stylish and modern hotels and its mix of new world wine making and traditional methods has brought in a new kinds of visitors eager to discover the its historical heritage and admire the striking landscapes. While also indulging in tours and tasting in the many wineries that are spread over the region.


Many of the vineyards cover the region and cross over to the Basque country. Many of the grapes used by individual wineries are taken from different areas of La Rioja and the Basque country. The capital of the region is the untouristy  Logroño, this is the main commercial centre but also has a old historic Centre lined with tapas bars.
Chillis hanging ou to dry

Main tapas street in Logroño




The tapas are cheap and delicious, typically served are pinchos which are marinated meat skewers, stuffed piquillo peppers, Riojan cheeses and sweet paprika chorizo. There is also a great local fiesta in September, the streets are full with people eating and drinking. The local wines are of course on offer, as are other wines from around Spain. One of the most delicious wines I tried was a young white wine from the region, at only 0.70cents a glass!  What's also also appealing about Logroño is that there is none of that wine snobbery that you find in areas like Bordeaux. Any bartender is happy to advise and suggest wines that will be more than reasonable in price.



Right: stuffed piquillo pepper, left; pinchos (Before)

(After)
Another big wine producing town is Haro, which is home to both the Muga and the Cune wineries. Tours of the wineries cost between 6 and 10 euros, and free wine tasting is included. Muga actually gives each visitor a wine tasting glass as a present.

Grapes being processed

Huge wine vats
 Its worth doing one or two tours to see the inside workings of the wineries and the different methods that are used. The history of the wineries are also explained and some of their origins are quite interesting. If you can get a glimpse of the the growers wine book, this provides plenty of interesting information of the wine harvests, some even date back till the 18th century.

In the Muga wine cellar

The countryside around Haro is stunning. Camping is a good option in La rioja and there is an excellent campsite situated right between  the town and the Muga winery in Haro. Don't miss the wine festival in August when everyone throws copious amounts of wine over each other.

In the north of La Rioja towards the Basque country there are stunning mountain and valleys. There are actually seven main rivers that run through the region making it very green and fertile. There are even Vultures to be seen on the mountain tops as well as old red-stoned villages along the way.

Countryside around La Rioja


Logroño has an airport and there are flights from London and connecting flights from Madrid. Alternatively, you could hire a car from Madrid and take a tour up to La Rioja, its about two hours away from Madrid and worth the drive. Online car hires are the cheapest in Spain, check out amigosautos.com or pepecar.com
Abandoned village house

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Friday 17 June 2011

Salpicón de Mariscos


Salpicón de Marisco is like a seafood salad and it is a typical Mediterranean dish. It is a dish which makes the most of the vegetable patch as it does of the sea. As with many dishes, there a a variety of ways to do it. In Andalusia and especially Seville, it is made with king prawns, octopus, peppers and onion and dressed in a vinegaret.

 You would normally find this dish on the bar being served as a tapas as it is easy to prepare and lighter and more refeshing than other tapas for those hot days.
                                                                                     
 What you will need:                                                                 


16 cooked king prawns
1 cooked octopus tentacle
1 cucumber
1 green pepper (Spanish variety pictured)
1 onion
1 avocado
1 tomato
Small handful of chopped parsley
Sherry vinegar
Extra virgin olive oil
Rock salt



You can also add cooked mussels and olives if you like if so, leave out the avocado. You don't want to overload the dish. If you can't find fresh octopus, most delicatessens serve octopus pieces in jars marinated in olive oil herbs.



How to prepare

Peel the prawns, onion and the cucumber leaving some skin on the cucumber it it looks stripy. Clean the octopus and the tomato and chop them in equally sized pieces. Half and the avocado and remove the centre, then chop into pieces. If you like you can use the empty avocado shell to present the salpión (just like the old prawn cocktail!). Put all the chopped ingredients in a bowl and add a sprinkle of rock salt, stir everything around and then add a sprinkling of vinegar, stir then add a good gulp of the olive oil, taste to see if more vinegar or salt is needed. Sprinkle over the chopped parsley.



Serve with a dry white wine or a very cold Manzanilla, eat with crusty bread to soak up the juices or tortilla Española or even a variety of tapas. Buen aproveche!

Sunday 12 June 2011

El Teide Spain's Highest Mountain

This is a time-lapse video of el Teide, Spain's highest mountain in Tenerife. It is such a great video accompanied by beautiful music by Ludovico Einaudi - "Nuvole bianche", you have to have a look.


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Saturday 11 June 2011

Montanejos A Hidden Gem

Main pool at Montanejos

Behind the mountains near Valencia, the spa village of Montanejos is beset by pine covered mountains. Its natural swimming baths are filled with natural mineral water pouring straight from the mountain, you can swim and drink the cool clean water which flows down into several different pools.












In the hot summer months Montanejos is a cool refreshing change to the costas and it is popular with Spanish holiday makers who seem to prefer the fresh mineral water rather than the salty Mediterranean sea. Although popular,  it does not every seem overcrowded and it is also an established base for mountain sports.

Abuelas enjoying the tranquillity


There is not much to the town itself although the main square has some nice reasonable bars and places to eat serving typical lunches. There are also a few little shops selling local products like honey.

River running through the valley






Its a stunning journey to get to Montanejos from Castellón on the CV20. The road takes you through the Río Mijares gorges all the way up to Montanejos that lies in the very centre of the Sierra de Espadán.


View of the old town





Most of the hotels are open only in the summer as it get quite cold up there in the winter. There is also a pension called Refugio de Escaladores. If you've got a camper there is plenty of place to park up. There is also a free camping that has barbecue facilities and running water near Cirat on the way to Montanejos on the CV20.

Bridge at the bottom of the town
Some thistles growing wild

Tuesday 7 June 2011

Brisk guide to Santiago de Compostela

Narrow street of the old town
The cathedral  was built between 1075 and1211




View of Santiago  









Santiago de Compostela is a beautiful city located in the north-west of Spain in the region of Galicia. It is famously known for the religious pilgrimage called the 'Camino de Santiago de Compostela'. However, if you don't fancy walking from the Pyrenees there is an airport with regular flights from Stansted with Ryanair or a regular train service from Madrid, which makes Santiago a great destination for a getaway break.
                                                     
Morning light on the cathedral
The compact old town, which is almost completely pedestrianised  is primarily focused around the cathedral, the cathedral being the main draw for many tourists. The cathedral can get very busy at times so if you want to contemplate the cathedral's Romanesque architecture without the bustle or the cues get there extra early to watch the sun come up over the towers, it makes for a spectacular sight and a impressive start to the day.
Archways surrounding the cathedral walls

 Strolling around the cathedral takes you through a series of narrow streets and squares filled with bars and restaurants. Following the cathedral walls around the city brings you to a several different convents and monasteries. If you're getting hungry you can try the typical dish of the region, which is octopus or 'pulpo al gallega'. This is boiled octopus served on potatoes with paprika and olive oil.                                                                                   
Typical bar offering a 'good octopus' 

View of the cathedral from the park
Dove house in the park
If you have not had enough of the cathedral yet you can get some stunning views of it from the park Alameda which is between the old town and the university, it also offers great views of the rest of the city. The park is the former lands of the counts of Altamira, and it was given to the council in the 19th century. The park was designed taking into account the three social classes of that time, there is three walks taking into account each social class. 
Alameda park

Alameda Park

Old facade of the university

 If you're looking for somewhere to stay there are plenty of reasonable priced guest houses called 'pensiones' available to accommodate the pilgrims. On the other end, there is the Parador situated right next to the cathedral called Hotel Hostel dos Reis Catolicos. This luxury hotel is considered to be one of the oldest hotels in the world. For something different contact the university for their summer accommodation information. They have rooms with bathrooms available during summertime with a good quality cafeteria and bar downstairs offering varied and cheap food.


The city as a whole offers more than the end to a religious pilgrimage, it has an abundance of seafood restaurants with local fresh fish and seafood brought in daily from Coruna to be washed down with the local white wine, Albariño. Its rich architecture is best observed wandering from plaza to plaza without the aid of a map. During the summer there is often some event or other taking place adding a festive feel to city.

The market