Ancient MegaStructures - Alhambra (National Geographic Documentary)

I love watching anything about the Alhambra, for me it is one of the most awe-inspiring buildings I have ever seen. It is one of the reasons that I fell in love with Spain.

Las Fallas in the Region of Valencia 2014

The Festivals called 'Las Fallas' begins soon in Valencia, not just in the city of Valencia but the whole region. The festival is celebrated every year between the 16 and the 19th of March in honor of Saint Joseph. During the days coming up to the festival sculptures and giant figures are set up and mounted called 'Las Fallas'. The sculptures were originally made from cardboard and wood but now are made from papier-mache on a wooden frame.
 The sculptures represent a satirical look on life. They communicate messages that comment on a theme and depicting caricatures with humour. The word Falla comes from Mozarabic as well as the Latin for facula and is translated as 'Faults'.During the festival there is a lot of noise from fireworks and banger constantly being set off. It is not for the faint hearted as the banger in the street certainly make you jump.
There is plenty of music and food and partying into the night. Valencia itself can become ram-packed so I would recommend visiting a smaller town like Gandia where there a a great many Fallas to see and parties to be had. The atmosphere around this time is so exciting, there is so much anticipation to see the sculptures and start partying. The 19th which is the day they burn the Fallas is a Regional holiday so almost everyone can get to enjoy this unique festival. 

This is a great article I found in the Guardian. Logrono is such an amazing place to visit and the wine and tapas are outstanding.

A tapas pilgrimage

One block, 50 bars and a small mountain of Spanish fast food. Norman Miller loosens his belt for a gourmet tour of LogroñoShare

• Norman Miller
• The Guardian, Saturday 1 August 2009

Snack bar ... chorizo is the speciality at Bar Lorenzo. Photograph: Norman Miller

The following correction was printed in the Guardian's Corrections and clarifications column, Friday 7 August 2009

The piece below about the tapas bars of Logroño in northern Spain mentioned in passing the art collection housed in the city's Museo de La Rioja. To clarify: the museum is closed. It may reopen some time this year.

---

An Andalucían would say Granada, or possibly Seville. Proud, food-obsessed Basques would choose San Sebastián, no question. And Madrileños, well ... they think the capital has the best of everything - from food to football.

While tapas are ubiquitous in Spain, the question of who serves up the best is divisive. Granada, the spiritual home of the tapa, has a good shout, and it's also one of the few places where they are still offered free with a drink. Seville probably has the most atmospheric old bars, but not the best tapas, while San Sebastian's elaborate pintxos, as they're called in Basque, are delicious works of art.

But my vote goes to Logroño, the untouristy capital of La Rioja, for the sheer concentration of tapas bars in its medieval old town. Almost 50 are crammed into a single block about the size of four tennis courts. I counted 24 in 100 steps along Calle del Laurel, 13 in 50 paces along Travesía del Laurel. Calle San Agustin and Calle Albornoz complete the circuit with a dozen more. Hemingway treated his taste buds here during his Iberian travels, while King Juan Carlos has given them his royal seal of approval.

This concentration grew from old wine shops (envas) that once sold Rioja's wine in these narrow medieval streets. The wine business has now shifted to nearby Haro, whose historic centre has a tiny tapas circuit of its own known as "The Horseshoe".

With so many bars in so little space you might expect fierce competition, but Logroño, on the river Ebro and a stop-off point for pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela, has worked out a simple solution - each bar specialises in just two or three dishes. "There are no rivals here," says Lourdes Sainz, as I start a lunchtime progress along Travesia del Laurel at her brightly-coloured Bar Lorenzo, mingling with blokes on a booze-and-a-bite warm-up for a long Spanish lunch.

Lorenzo majors on simply grilled chistorra (chorizo with sweet paprika and garlic) alongside succulent lamb kebabs doused in a secret sauce full of contrasting sweet and sharp notes. The recipe, Lourdes explains, came from her husband's grandmother in lieu of a more typical inheritance: "There's no money in the will, just the sauce. That is your future." A brisk flow of punters testifies to its appeal.

Next door, Bar Soriano specialises in setas - wild mushrooms cooked in garlicky butter then skewered with a shrimp. Opposite, La Aldea is a shellfish paradise - razor clams (navajas) cooked to sweet perfection, juicy clams (almejas) washed down with a copa of bone-dry Barbadillo. Halfway along Calle Laurel, the wood-beamed La Tasca del Pato offers white asparagus grilled with a wrap of Riojan cheese, and txangurrito - a fishcake of crab and shellfish with a rich béchamel.

The source of all this produce is the Mercado de San Blas(eabastos.com), a modernist edifice whose two floors are testament to the Riojan larder - earthy ceps foraged from wooded hills, broad beans bulging in glistening pods, hot peppers, gleaming fresh fish.

The meat counters push the concept of nose-to-tail eating to extremes - I'm secretly relieved that veal snout (morro de ternera), traditionally stewed with tripe, onion, garlic and chorizo, and skinned pig's face (careta de cerdo) are both niche, home-cooked specialities I never got to try.

I do, however, get to taste embuchados - coiled lamb intestines - at En Ascuas (0034 941 246 867, Calle Hermanos Moroy 22), a crisp-linened restaurant famed for meat cooked in a giant, wood-fired oven. They are paired with a parsley and garlic sauce and I tuck in happily while watching the oven flames leap behind a glass panel.

Once, locals regularly cooked over outdoor barbecues of burning vine branches - a throwback I witness the next day at Bodegas Puelles(+941 334 415, bodegaspuelles.com), an organic vineyard about 30 minutes' drive from Logroño in Abalos. The air quivers with summer heat as I wind up through rocky foothills dotted by chozos, bee-hive shaped stone storage buildings.

Greeted by the owner, Jesús Puelles, we wander to the edge of a vineyard where vines sweep down into a lush valley. A pile of tindery branches towers above plates of lamb and sausages that are soon sizzling over the burning vines to provide a succulently rustic lunch on a cool patio, complemented by wines from the hillside where we'd cooked.

I while away another afternoon exploring Logroño's ancient core, sandwiched between the green spaces of the riverside Parque del Ebro and the tree-filled Paseo Del Espolón. The main street, Calle Portales, is lined with cafes and old-fashioned shops while, in the wide Plaza Del Mercado, I crane my neck to take in the magnificent 16th-century cathedral.

As well as ancient churches to please the pilgrims, Logroño has its share of cultural succour, too. Classical art stars at the Museo de La Rioja, housed in an 18th-century palace on Plaza de San Agustín, and is sharply contrasted by the Würth Museum, a striking contemporary art showcase that is only a few miles out of town in Agoncillo (served by free buses from Glorieta del Doctor Zubía).

On my final evening, I take in a show of Italian photography at the Sala Amos Salvador before returning to the tapas trail. At Pata Negra there's more art - a mural of bucolic pigs facing a bar where staff bellow orders for plates of meltingly rich acorn-fed iberico.

The streets are louder and busier, the crowd more diverse. Drawn by the sight of a huge octopus, I dive into La Universidad to wolf down paprika-smeared pulpo a la gallega (boiled Galician octopus) alongside chipirones (baby squid) while eavesdropping on some pilgrims.

"Where are you going tomorrow?"

"I'm starting a two-day walk."

"Only two days?!"

I give thanks that I'm on my trail rather than theirs, and move on to Calle San Agustín. In El Soldado de Tudelilla, the guingillas (fiery green peppers) are so hot I swear the air shimmers in front of me as I quickly order some cooling Asturian cider, which the barman pours from on high while greeting new arrivals with a cheery, "Hola, chicos!"

At Bodeguilla Los Rotos, I encounter gulas, which are delicious elver look-alikes made with white fish (real eels are too scarce) and served with creamy scrambled eggs. I mourn the eels' fate over a glass of vermouth, while plucking tiny caracolillos (sea snails) from their shells with a pin.

My evening ends in Bar Sebas on Calle Albornoz where, assuming "sheep's ear" to be a euphemism for something scrumptious, I find myself biting into crunchy ovine cartilage. The man beside me watches with amusement as I try to clear the plate nonchalantly, then asks if I've been around many of the bars.

"A lot, but not all," I tell him. He nods and tells me of the local nickname for the circuit. "We call it La Senda de los Elefantes - the Trail of the Elephants," he laughs, "because of the way people walk if they've done all the bars." I thank him, then finish my drink and stagger into the warm summer night.

• Iberia (0870 609 0500, iberia.com) flies from London to Logroño via Madrid or Barcelona, from £231 return including tax. Hotel Husa Gran Vía (00 34 941 28 78 50, hotelhusagranvia.com) has doubles from €80 per night. Further information from the Spanish Tourist Office: 020 7486 8077, spain.info/uk

Day Trips From Madrid

Lake at Aranjuez

Staying in any city for more than a few days can be feet achingly tiring, the chance of seeing a bit of greenery and open space out of the city is an attractive option. It also allows you to discover more of the region your staying in and adds an additional authentic experience to your stay, wherever you are. Madrid is located in the very centre of Spain on the Castilian plateau, it is in the region of the Comunidad de Madrid which is one of the seventeen autonomous regions of Spain. Madrid is is connected by several train stations, Atocha in the south of the city and Chamartín in the north. From these stations it is possible to take the the local train service (Cercanias) to a number of destinations, see the Renfe (Spanish train service) website for timetables http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/index.html. Here's a selection of the best day trips from Madrid.

Toledo's Alcantara bridge

Toledo

View of Toledo

Toledo is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the old Toledo is made of of labyrinthine medieval streets and is encircled by the river Tagus on three sides. In the summer months, Toledo can be busy with tourists especially at the weekends, however it makes for a great day trip as it only 35mins on the train from Madrid. The must sees while your there are the Cathedral and the Alcázar of Toledo, a castle which is now a museum.


Aranjuez 
Not far from Toledo is Aranjuez, which used to be the place where the Spanish royalty spent there summers. It is renown for it beautiful gardens which are a popular setting for wedding photos. Like Toledo it can be busy with tourists who come to admire the Royal palace and gardens. It is truly a magical and beautiful place to visit and to just wander. Travel time from Madrid is approximately 45 minutes.

Gardens at Aranjuez

El Escorial 

Library at El Escorial 

North-west of Madrid is the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. It is the location of  a rather austere monastery built by Felipe II and finished in 1584 after twenty years of construction. The huge granite building is an awe-inspiring site from the outside and its interior is decorated with frescoes and paintings by Velázquez, Titian and El Greco among others. El Escorial is a real step back in time, Felipe II's bedroom has been preserved in the same condition as when he died in 1598. El Escorial can be reached by bus from Moncloa bus station (bus 661) or from Atocha or Chamartín train stations, the journey takes about an hour.

El Escorial

Alcala de Henares

Palacio de Laredo

Famous as the birthplace of Cervantes, Alcala de Henares is a medieval university town 35 km North-east of  from Madrid. The old town has been largely preserved and it is made up of winding cobbled streets. The centre has also been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is famous for its population of white storks that nest on top of many of the historial buildings, they have themselves become quite a tourist attraction. A must see is the Palacio de Laredo which is an eye-catching building due to its mix of architectural styles (Gothic, Mudejar and Arabesque). Alcala is well connected to Madrid and has become a commuter town as its on 25minutes journey by train.

Alcala de Henares Plaza Cervantes

Segovia

Segovia is situated to the north-west of Madrid in the region of Castile y Leon. Segovia is an enchanting city famous for the Roman aqueduct that was built c. AD 50. Segovia has be declared a world heritage site by UNESCO and has a abundance of historical buildings of civic and religious relevance. Some must sees include the 16th century Gothic Cathedral in the Plaza Mayor and the Alcázar de Segovia, which is a 14th century fortress of Roman origin. To see something more modern, the Contemporary Art Museum houses the work by the Abstract Expresssionist Esteban Vincente in a Renaissance style palace. Train journey from Madrid is about 30 minutes. 

Alcázar Segovia

Aqueduct Segovia

'La Cuenta Por Favor', some useful advice and phrases for ordering in Spanish.

Typical restaurant front

Tapas

It's a slightly different affair ordering food in Spain, the menu system is different as is the way in which customers speak to the waiters. However, the seemingly curt manner in which Spanish people ask for things in a restaurant isn't seen as rude, its direct and to the point and for learners of Spanish a great deal easier to pick up. Here's an example, in English someone would say: 'Could I possibly have a glass of water please?', to translate into Spanish would be -'¿Me podrias traer un vasito de agua por favor?, where in truth, it would be 'Traerme agua, por favor', literally, 'Bring me water please'.  It's a perfectly acceptable way to speak, as long as you don't forget you 'por favor' or 'gracias' it isn't rude at all. Simply asking for a beer can be put as bluntly as 'Una cerveza por favor'.
 From an English point of view, it can take a bit of getting used to as it sounds very direct which is contrary to the English way of asking for things (in most cases). Unless you're in high society in Spain, it 's doubtful you'll need to use 'could' and 'would' in relation to asking for things in a restaurant. Here's some useful words and phrases to use when ordering. The words in brackets show how the Spainsh word's pronounced.

Oiga - Is like saying 'hey' to get the waiter's attention, it's pronounced oye-ga.

Camarero/a - waiter/ress

¿Me traes la carta por favor? - Could you bring me the menu please?

¿Que te recomiendas? - What would you recommend? ( rec-com-me-end-das)

¿Cual es el plato típico de aquí? - Which dish is a local speciality?

¿De que consiste? - What's in it?

Quiero..... - I would like.... (key-ro)

Para mí.... - For me.... (mí is pronounced the same as me)

Trae pan por favor - Could you bring some bread please?

Otra botella por favor - Could you bring another bottle please? (bot- teya)

¿Donde estan los servicios? or  ¿El baño por favor? - Where is the toilet/bathroom please?

La cuenta por favor - Can we have the bill please?

Tapas bar

Board advertising the menú

When asking for the menu it's important to distinguish between the a la carte menu (la carta) and the the daily menu (el menú or menú del día). May bars and restaurants serve a daily menu which consists of three courses and mostly includes a drink and coffee. This menu can cost anything between 6 and 15 euros per person with the more expensive tasting menus (menú de des-gustación) around 30 euros. The menú del día is a good economical option that often consists of a selection of local specialities.





If you're looking  for vegetarian food and you're not in Barcelona, you going to find it hard. There isn't such a thing as veggie burgers and what goes for a sandwhich 'vegetal' contains tuna. In Spain, what would be regarded as a vegetarian option would be a fish dish. I'd suggest asking for things like 'Verduras a la Plancha' which is grilled vegetables like peppers, asparagus and aubergine, or Tortilla Española which is of course a Spanish omelette. Also, be specific about salads, they often contain tuna, 'sin' means 'without', so 'sin atún' is 'without tuna'. To be clear that you don't eat meat or fish, 'Soy vegetariano/a' - I am a vegetarian. 'No como carne ni pescado'- I don't eat meat or fish. And there's always patatas fritas (chips) if nothing else.

Tapas and wine

When ordering, you can choose between ordering tapas or raciones which are larger portions of tapas or platos, which are dishes served with  potatoes and vegetables, which is called 'guarnición'. These are normally preceded by 'entrantes' (starters) and followed by 'postre' (dessert).

Hake with clams

If you see 'servicio incluido' on the menu this means that service is included in the price, although it usually isn't and tipping for service is the normal thing to do. In Spanish VAT is IVA and it should show on your bill the percentage of IVA added. The menu should also state whether IVA is 'incluido' in the individual prices of the dishes.
If the waiter likes you, you may be invited to have a 'chupito', a shot of liqueur normally Orujo which is like the Italian Grappa. Remember, 'Te invito' means you are being invited to a free chupito, so make sure it doesn't appear on the bill. Also, 'de la casa' means 'on the house', in case you're lucky enough to hear that.

Restaurant in Mallorca

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Something more refreshing.....Sangría Blanca

We are used to, and perhaps a bit bored of drinking Sangria made with red wine. However, Sangría Blanca (white sangria) is a much more refreshing adaptation of the original, and is the suitable option for those hot afternoons that lead on to long summer evenings. It can be topped up with more or less alcohol as you like or as the evening progresses. This recipe uses among other things Vodka, if you wish to make a softer version the Vodka can be left out altogether. But do try at least a splash of sherry as it really brings out all the flavours.


To make a jug of Sangria you will need:

1 bottle of dry white wine
50ml of Vodka or dry sherry such as a Fino (or both, just add a bit more soda)
2 limes halved
2 lemons halved plus a few extra wegdes
1 small bunch of white grapes de-seeded and halved
a selection of chopped fruit such as peaches, strawberries or oranges
a few sprigs of mint
club soda or lemonade
ice

To prepare the Sangría, pour the wine and Vodka/sherry into a jug. Juice the limes and lemons and add the juice to the jug. Add the all the fruit, lemon wedges, ice and mint, then stir. Top up with the soda or lemonade.

Adaptations: as with the original, there are many possible ways to adapt this recipe; different spirits could be used such as gin or tequila. Also, if you haven't got fresh mint, then a splash of mint liqueur is a good replacement. The fruit used can also be adapted to what's available to  you.

Tip: this recipe is a great way to use up any white wine of a lesser quality, although a medium priced white wine is the preferred option.

It's getting too hot, time to go up North: La Rioja

Church in a small village of La Rioja

The wine region of la Rioja has become more widely known around the world in recent years, firstly for the quality red wine that it produces and secondly as a travel destination. The types of visitor the region of La Rioja pulls is mainly Spanish, being fairly near Madrid, it makes it an ideal getaway. However, it is beginning to emulate the atmosphere of St Emilion as a centre for wine appreciation. Its stylish and modern hotels and its mix of new world wine making and traditional methods has brought in a new kinds of visitors eager to discover the its historical heritage and admire the striking landscapes. While also indulging in tours and tasting in the many wineries that are spread over the region.


Many of the vineyards cover the region and cross over to the Basque country. Many of the grapes used by individual wineries are taken from different areas of La Rioja and the Basque country. The capital of the region is the untouristy  Logroño, this is the main commercial centre but also has a old historic Centre lined with tapas bars.

Chillis hanging ou to dry

Main tapas street in Logroño

The tapas are cheap and delicious, typically served are pinchos which are marinated meat skewers, stuffed piquillo peppers, Riojan cheeses and sweet paprika chorizo. There is also a great local fiesta in September, the streets are full with people eating and drinking. The local wines are of course on offer, as are other wines from around Spain. One of the most delicious wines I tried was a young white wine from the region, at only 0.70cents a glass!  What's also also appealing about Logroño is that there is none of that wine snobbery that you find in areas like Bordeaux. Any bartender is happy to advise and suggest wines that will be more than reasonable in price.

Right: stuffed piquillo pepper, left; pinchos (Before)

(After)

Another big wine producing town is Haro, which is home to both the Muga and the Cune wineries. Tours of the wineries cost between 6 and 10 euros, and free wine tasting is included. Muga actually gives each visitor a wine tasting glass as a present.

Grapes being processed

Huge wine vats

 Its worth doing one or two tours to see the inside workings of the wineries and the different methods that are used. The history of the wineries are also explained and some of their origins are quite interesting. If you can get a glimpse of the the growers wine book, this provides plenty of interesting information of the wine harvests, some even date back till the 18th century.

In the Muga wine cellar

The countryside around Haro is stunning. Camping is a good option in La rioja and there is an excellent campsite situated right between  the town and the Muga winery in Haro. Don't miss the wine festival in August when everyone throws copious amounts of wine over each other.

In the north of La Rioja towards the Basque country there are stunning mountain and valleys. There are actually seven main rivers that run through the region making it very green and fertile. There are even Vultures to be seen on the mountain tops as well as old red-stoned villages along the way.

Countryside around La Rioja

Logroño has an airport and there are flights from London and connecting flights from Madrid. Alternatively, you could hire a car from Madrid and take a tour up to La Rioja, its about two hours away from Madrid and worth the drive. Online car hires are the cheapest in Spain, check out amigosautos.com or pepecar.com

Abandoned village house

 enjoyinspain-melissa.blogspot.com